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Welcome to the Zāwiya: An inconvenient place of enchantment

DR. RAMI KOUJAH In the northeast of Morocco, there is a small, unassuming town called Al Aaroui. It is home to a proud, stalwart Berber people: the Riffians. You could drive the length of this dusty stretch of buildings in about 5 minutes. But you will not find luxe riads, ornately carved mosques, or any cuisine worth writing home about.…

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